Installation
As with most AIOs, the installation of the HYTE THICC Q60 is pretty easy, though you will definitely want to make sure your case is compatible with this cooler. The additional thickness and length of the radiator and fans can make things a bit more complex than normal, and the side-mounted Breakout-Kabel might pose some challenges, depending on how wide your case is. Thankfully, HYTE does provide a compatibility matrix to help you out, and while it does cover many of the most popular cases, you might be able to install it in cases not on that list. As DIY PC building seems to be getting more popular each and every day, the option of AIO liquid coolers is sure to entice those wanting to have a more advanced build, and easy installation will go a long way towards not scaring off first-time builders. As I mentioned when I covered the included accessories, HYTE has included all of the necessary mounting hardware for a large list of both Intel and AMD processors, but they have also included a physical installation manual. I have seen quite a few companies move to digital versions of their product manuals, and while I appreciate their reduced waste, I still prefer a physical copy of installation instructions, and was happy to have them for this kit.
Our testing is performed with fans in a push configuration, so to get things started, I first needed to remove the FP12 fans from their pull orientation and get them mounted in order to push air through the radiator. This is a very easy process, as the cable-less design of the FP12 fans means you only have to remove the screws, change the fan orientation, and then screw them back onto the radiator.
From the factory, the Q60 comes equipped with Intel mounting hardware installed, so the first step in my CPU block installation was to remove the Intel bracket and install the AMD bracket. Thankfully this is an easy task, as the brackets simply slide in and out of place, via small channels in the side of the water block housing. The THICC Q60 uses the threaded AMD backplate, so you must first remove the plastic brackets from your CPU socket area.
With the plastic brackets out of the way, you simply screw in four standoffs to the AMD backplate.
Next up is attaching the water block housing to the standoffs, and using the included mounting nuts to secure the cooler to your CPU and motherboard.
Depending on your system layout, you might need to do this next step in a different order, but my next step was to connect the Breakout-Kabel to the radiator and then to the rest of my system. This required connecting a 3-pin plug to the motherboard CPU header for motherboard monitoring and to tell the system that a cooler is installed. Next is a USB 2.0 plug that attaches to your motherboard to allow for communication between the Q60 and your system. The last connection is quite unique to AIOs – a 6-pin PCIe connection. Since the Q60 can support a large number of external devices, in addition to its dual pumps, fans, and screen, the power afforded by the 6-pin PCIe connector ensures that there is plenty of juice for the system to function properly. I do wish this was made available via a SATA plug, or reluctantly even a 4-pin Molex connector, as some systems may have issues providing an additional PCIe option after their GPU has taken its required amount.
Next up is attaching the radiator to the top of the case. Just like attaching the fans to the radiator, attaching the radiator to the case is a simple task. Using the eight included screws, simply align them with the appropriate mounting points on your case, and tighten. There was plenty of tubing length to allow for a good deal flexibility with regards to mounting options, which is always appreciated.
